By Jude Jones.
Managing editor Jude Jones reviews the highlights of Paris Menswear A/W Fashion Week, as another of the fashion world’s seminal events rolls to an end. These are our favourites from a remarkably imaginative, innovative outing.
How do we create in times of human crisis? The realm of high fashion – cold, lofty, insular – feels so divorced from our layperson’s reality, yet in a moment when human isolation and desolation have been made to feel so unbearably ubiquitous, the ritual elitism that defines their world seems to pulsate back through ours: compassion reduced to commodity, intimacy to discrepancy.
Owens’ “PORTERVILLE” show is his heartfelt response to such contemporary existentialisms. Named for his California hometown on the borders of the Sierra Nevada mountain range, the show becomes a literal homecoming, replacing Owens’ usual stage at the Palais de Tokyo for the minimalist dystopianism of his own house. Located in the former headquarters of the Parti socialiste on the Place du Palais Bourbon, this is where, twenty-five years ago, Owens founded his brand, giving us intimate passage into his interior world. And this leitmotif of the intimate seeps naturally into his designs. Enormous, armour-like jackets made from alpaca, cashmere, and merino; sculptural puffer jackets enveloping, obscuring, and protecting his models’ otherworldly faces and bodies. These were the pieces that led just some of the charge.